市場學paper作業代寫：Differentiation in the Marketing of Fashion Clothes

本文是市場學專業的paper范例，題目是“Differentiation in the Marketing of Fashion Clothes（服裝營銷中的差異化）”，隨著20世紀90年代英國服裝零售市場格局的變化，英國服裝市場已經基本成熟。傳統的采購來源，如百貨商店、服裝獨立商店和雜貨鋪，發生了重大轉變，轉而青睞折扣店、超市和體育用品商店。這反映了英國的“休閑化”，以及更便宜的進口產品對零售價格水平的下行壓力。買服裝和鞋類越來越遠離傳統的高街的位置外地購物中心、家庭通常花的一部分,好的一天瀏覽和購物在各種各樣的商店,而不是訪問當地的高街購物在特定的媒體。

The UK clothing market is essentially mature, following changes in the profile of the UK retail market for clothing during the 1990s. There was a major shift away from traditional sources of purchasing, such as department stores, clothing independents and variety stores, in favour of discounters, supermarkets and sports outlets. This reflects the ‘casualisation’ of the UK and the downward pressure of cheaper, imported products on retail price levels. Shopping for clothing and footwear is increasingly moving away from the traditional high street locations to out-of-town shopping centres, where families may typically spend a good part of a day browsing and shopping in a wide range of stores, rather than visiting their local high street to shop in specific outlets.

Mainstream women’s clothing is still strongly populated by private labels from variety stores, such as Marks & Spencer or Bhs, and clothing specialists, such as Next, River Island and Principles. Premium product ranges remain focused primarily on department stores and there is some degree of “trading up” to labels such as Alexon, Planet, Viyella or Jaeger by consumers with greater disposable income levels (Global Market Information Database, 2005). Discounters significantly strengthened their share of consumer purchasing over the last two decades, largely due to the success of the Matalan and Primark chains. However, there are indications in the last two years that strong growth in the position of supermarket groups, largely due to their expansion into fashion wear, is beginning to shift value-driven purchasing in their favour away from discounters, though this shift is not yet decisive. Supermarkets are becoming increasingly involved in clothing; with companies such as Asda, Tesco and J Sainsbury have all launched clothing collections under a brand identity during the past few years. For example, J Sainsbury commissioned fashion designer Jeff Banks to launch a clothing range and Asda’s George at Asda range quickly became well-established, making supermarkets increasingly key players in the market. However, supermarkets still tend to focus on price, rather than fashion, and are thus not yet truly key players on the scale of Marks and Spencer, Next and Matalan (Global Market Information Database, 2005).

The UK consumer increasingly regards an item of clothing or footwear as a disposable item, rather than an investment and this has affected both consumers’ approaches to purchasing decisions, and the fashion marketers’ sales practices. Whilst quality remains important, as an item must be fit for use, fashion styles play a much greater role in everyday purchasing than previously, so that a piece of clothing may not be expected to last longer than one season. This, in turn, places an emphasis on price levels; and the significantly increased availability of ‘value’ brands in supermarkets and discounters, which stimulates volume purchasing without contributing to value sales development. There is also a growing emphasis on purchasing clothing for leisure use, which has a direct impact on the sales practices used, and on their styling. The dramatic increase in purchasing of sports clothing and footwear during recent years was largely underwritten by fashion marketing, rather than by a significantly higher level of participation in active sports.

英國消費者越來越多地將衣服或鞋子視為一次性物品，而不是一種投資，這既影響了消費者的購買決策，也影響了時尚營銷人員的銷售行為。雖然質量仍然很重要，因為一件衣服必須適合使用，但時尚風格在日常購買中起著比以前更大的作用，所以一件衣服可能不會穿超過一個季節。這反過來又強調了價格水平;超市和折扣店中“超值”品牌的可得性顯著增加，這刺激了大量購買，但對超值銷售的發展沒有貢獻。人們也越來越重視購買休閑服裝，這對服裝的銷售方式和款式有直接影響。近年來，運動服裝和鞋類的購買急劇增加，主要是由于時尚市場的推動，而不是由于參加積極運動的人數顯著增加。

Although a necessary requirement of life, which requires regular replacement for functional reasons, let alone in response to fashion trends, clothing sales show an increasing trend of been strongly affected by price discounting during recent years (Global Market Information Database, 2005). Increased competition at retail level, particularly due to the growing involvement of supermarkets and discounters, is causing deflation on prices in most UK clothing and footwear. This situation has been further exacerbated by the growing globalisation of product supply, with formerly UK production increasingly relocated to low-cost production units in the Far East and Eastern Europe.

雖然服裝是一種生活必需品，由于功能原因需要定期更換，更不要說要適應時尚趨勢，但近年來服裝銷量受到價格折扣的強烈影響呈上升趨勢(Global Market Information Database, 2005)。零售業競爭的加劇，特別是由于超市和折扣店越來越多的參與，正在導致英國大多數服裝和鞋類的價格緊縮。隨著產品供應的日益全球化，這種情況進一步惡化，以前英國的生產越來越多地轉移到遠東和東歐的低成本生產單位。

This major shift of production of clothing away from the UK to low-cost production locations, primarily in Asia-Pacific or Eastern Europe, has raised marketing threats for several UK companies over ethical issues surrounding the reported exploitation of cheap labour in these overseas production units. There was extensive media coverage of Marks & Spencer’s decision to abandon its previous strategy of sourcing the majority of its products from UK production (Global Market Information Database, 2005) To compensate for this shift in production, leading UK manufacturers began to emphasise their extensive expertise in product design, which adds value to the finished product. This offers an excellent opportunity for companies with the necessary experience to design and market new ranges of products with lower production overheads.

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服裝生產從英國轉移到低成本的生產地點，主要是在亞太或東歐，這對幾家英國公司的營銷帶來了倫理問題的威脅，這些倫理問題圍繞著這些海外生產單位剝削廉價勞動力的報道。媒體廣泛報道了瑪莎百貨決定放棄其先前的戰略，即從英國生產采購其大部分產品(全球市場信息數據庫，2005年)。為了彌補這種生產轉移，領先的英國制造商開始強調他們在產品設計方面的廣泛專業知識，這會增加成品的價值。這為具有必要經驗的公司提供了一個極好的機會，以較低的生產管理費用設計和銷售新產品系列。

b) Your assessment of the marketing strengths and weaknesses of the key players in terms of branding, reputation, differentiation and elements of the marketing mix.

Marks & Spencer has historically had a reputation as a leading retailer in the UK’s clothing sector, and this is a position that the company undoubtedly aspires to maintain. The bulk of its turnover is attributable to clothing, approximately 50%, and food, with 44%, (Global Market Information Database, 2005). However, as competition in the apparel sector intensified in the late 1990s, Marks & Spencer struggled to maintain market share. Marks & Spencer has always positioned and differentiated itself as offering reasonably priced, high quality and well-fitting clothes, but this marketing strategy received something of a battering at the end of the 20th century, as designers and commentators alike criticised the company for the very aspects of its brand which had traditionally attracted customers to the chain. However, Marks and Spencer’s marketing mix, primarily its design and quality, has received far more favourable press in recent years, and a renewed focus on casualwear and the core womenswear ranges, Per Una and Blue Harbour, have helped the company improve performance and regain market share (Strategic Direction, 2005).

瑪莎百貨歷來是英國服裝行業的領先零售商，這無疑是該公司渴望保持的地位。其營業額的大部分是服裝，約50%，和食品，44%，(全球市場信息數據庫，2005年)。然而，隨著20世紀90年代末服裝行業的競爭加劇，瑪莎百貨(Marks & Spencer)難以維持市場份額。瑪莎百貨一直把自己定位為提供價格合理、質量高、合身的服裝，并使自己與眾不同，但這種營銷策略在20世紀末受到了一些打擊，因為設計師和評論家都批評該公司的品牌正是傳統上吸引顧客的地方。然而，瑪莎百貨的營銷組合，主要是其設計和質量，近年來得到了更多的好評，并重新關注休閑服裝和核心女裝系列，Per Una和Blue Harbour，幫助公司提高業績和重新獲得市場份額(戰略方向，2005年)。

Matalan’s combination of low overheads, due to low cost out-of-town locations and overseas direct product sourcing, has enabled the chain to undercut high street competitors by as much as 50% on its own brands, and by as much as 35% on external branded products. Complementing its low price differentiation, Matalan also has an astute marketing mix. It operates as a clothing club: customers pay a mandatory ￡1 membership fee for the privilege of shopping at the stores. Membership information also enables Matalan to use direct marketing and to target customers with catalogues and tailored clothing lines to meet demand (Rowley and Haynes, 2005) The potential of the discount clothing market remains significant. Marginally larger than its leading competitor, New Look, Matalan looks relatively well placed to make the most of burgeoning opportunities in the discount sector. However, the recent slowdown in the clothing market does not appear to have been to Matalan’s advantage. The company should be in a position to benefit from trading down by consumers in the event of economic down-turn, but recent figures suggest that consumers are shopping elsewhere to get the best deals on designer names, and that Matalan’s bargain image now counts against it in the increasingly celebrity image-driven fashion markets

Next is one the major success stories of the upper end of the UK clothing mid-market. A retailer of fashionable, moderately priced clothing, for trendy men, women and children, Next offers products targeted at the top end of the mass market, and aims to combine individual styling with quality and value for money. Resisting the temptation to be overly trend setting, opting to differentiate itself by offering sensible and stylish clothing, rather than highly fashionable items, Next has maintained strong consumer loyalty. Since the early 1990s, Next has resisted all attempts to increase the number of clothing brands that it operates, convinced that diversification would ultimately be to the detriment of the Next brand. The success that it has achieved over many years as a result of product development, the progressive move to larger stores and the increase in the number of home shopping customers has convinced both the retailer itself and investors that it is right to continue with this marketing mix (Datamonitor, 2005)

接下來是一個主要的成功故事的高端英國服裝中端市場。Next是一家面向時尚男性、女性和兒童的時尚、價格適中的服裝零售商。Next的產品定位于高端大眾市場，旨在將個人風格與質量和性價比結合起來。Next抵制住了過度引領潮流的誘惑，選擇通過提供明智和時尚的服裝而不是高度時尚的產品來區分自己，因此保持了很強的消費者忠誠度。自上世紀90年代初以來，Next拒絕了所有增加旗下服裝品牌數量的嘗試，認為多元化最終會損害Next品牌的利益。成功,它取得了多年的產品開發,逐步轉移到更大的商店和家庭購物的顧客的數量的增加零售商本身和投資者相信它是正確的,繼續用這個營銷組合(Datamonitor, 2005)

c) Your marketing recommendations for any organisation wanting to enter the market.

In 2009, the United Kingdom apparel retail industry is forecast to have a value of $45.8 billion, an increase of 18.5% since 2004. The compound annual growth rate of the industry in the period 2004-2009 is predicted to be 3.4% (Datamonitor, 2005). This indicates that there will be space for new retailers to enter the market for clothing. However, consumer purchasing of clothing and footwear is now moving away from traditional outlets, such as department stores, variety stores and high street specialists, towards grocery supermarkets and discounters. This reflects a general move to out-of-town shopping, with consumers particularly attracted to the convenience of purchasing all their clothing items at the same time, and in the same store as they regularly buy groceries (Global Market Information Database, 2005) The brand name of an item of clothing also acts as a strong influence on the purchase decision, particularly among younger consumers. Peer pressure means that it is critically important to be seen wearing the “right” brand of sportswear, and sales of children’s wear have been boosted by this fact in recent years. At the same time, parents are typically enjoying a greater degree of disposable income during the review period, which is increasingly focused on spending on fashion items for their children (Coughlan, 2006).

Equally, the downward pricing trend in the UK fashion retail industry has led many retailers to focus upon profitability, rather than sales growth in recent years. Companies are continually trying to cut costs by utilizing measures such as larger retail formats, and by shifting production or changing their suppliers to lower cost regions in Latin America and Asia-Pacific. Some retailers have cut production and entered into niche markets in an attempt to add value to their business and improve margins. The UK retail industry is thus undergoing significant changes; traditionally dominated by high street retailers, supermarket chains such as ASDA and Tesco are expanding their clothing lines aggressively and gaining an increasing share of apparel sales. Originally the supermarkets purely focused on price to make their apparel attractive to British consumers and subsequently there was a certain stigma attached to their garments. However, as time has passed and supermarket labels have become more widely accepted, they are moving their range of clothes more upmarket, placing increased pressure on to traditional apparel retailers.

同樣，近年來，英國時尚零售行業的降價趨勢導致許多零售商關注的是盈利能力，而不是銷售增長。企業不斷試圖削減成本，比如采用更大的零售業態，以及將生產或供應商轉移到成本更低的拉美和亞太地區。一些零售商削減產量，進入利基市場，試圖增加業務價值，提高利潤率。因此，英國零售業正在經歷重大變化;阿斯達(ASDA)和特易購(Tesco)等傳統上由高街零售商主導的連鎖超市正在積極擴大其服裝產品線，并在服裝銷售中獲得越來越大的份額。最初，超市純粹關注價格，以使他們的服裝吸引英國消費者，后來，他們的服裝有一定的恥辱。然而，隨著時間的推移，超市品牌已被更廣泛地接受，它們正將自己的服裝系列轉向更高檔的市場，這給傳統服裝零售商帶來了越來越大的壓力。

Given this, any organization wanting to enter the UK fashion retail market is likely to have to differentiate itself based on brand, rather than quality or price. As new entrants will almost undoubtedly lack the buying power and reach of M&S, Next, Matalan or Tesco, they would be better advised to concentrate on building a profitable niche, and the best way to do this is to make themselves a desirable brand. Given the preference for the latest fashions, at reasonable prices, with clothes only intended to last for the season they are purchased, the ability to react rapidly to changes in the market is also vital for any new entrant. This would differentiate them from the large chains, which often have structured, lean, and slow supply chains. Finally, although the need to base production facilities abroad, to take advantage of low labour costs, is now widely recognised as being vital to profitability, there have been high levels of negative publicity over potential “sweatshop” working practices. As such, a significant advantage can accrue to an organisation which differentiates itself on the basis of providing good wages and working conditions to its overseas workers, provided that the price of the clothes can still be kept competitive.

有鑒于此，任何想要進入英國時尚零售市場的組織都可能不得不根據品牌而不是質量或價格來區分自己。由于新進入者幾乎毫無疑問將缺乏瑪莎百貨、Next、Matalan或樂購那樣的購買力和覆蓋范圍，他們最好還是專注于建立一個有利可圖的利基市場，而做到這一點的最好方法是把自己打造成一個令人滿意的品牌。考慮到人們喜歡最新的時裝，價格合理，衣服只能在購買的季節里穿，因此對于任何新進入者來說，對市場變化做出快速反應的能力也是至關重要的。這將使它們有別于大型供應鏈，后者通常擁有結構化、精益和緩慢的供應鏈。最后，盡管人們普遍認為，為了利用低廉的勞動力成本，需要在國外建立生產基地，這對盈利至關重要，但有關潛在的“血汗工廠”工作方式的負面宣傳一直很高。因此，如果一個組織能在服裝價格仍保持競爭力的前提下，為海外工人提供良好的工資和工作條件，從而使自己與眾不同，那么它就能獲得顯著的優勢。

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