女性的年齡
為了直觀地了解我國時尚男刊中的女性年齡,這里選取《名牌》、《時尚先生》、《名仕》作為研究的樣本,之所以選取這三本雜志作為樣本是因為它們在我國男性時尚雜志中較有代表性,可以成為研究的重點。以下是這三種時尚男刊從24本雜志中的女性年齡分層,由于其中部分女性的年齡筆者無法得知,所以以下數據統(tǒng)計較為粗糙。下表“其他”一欄包括筆者無法得知的女性年齡和45歲以上年齡的女性。
由表4.1觀察發(fā)現:《名牌》、《時尚先生》、《名仕》中涉及的女性幾乎都是年輕女性,年齡段在18一45歲之間,其中18一35歲之間的女性又占絕大多數,超過35歲的女性寥寥無幾,這說明時尚男刊中的女性以年輕女性為主,不包含年齡較大的女性群體。時尚男刊中推崇并贊美年輕貌美的女性,從另一個層面上說是商業(yè)化的結果,它以女性的外在美衡量女性,暗示年輕貌美的女性更有魅力,更有欣賞價值,年老色衰的女性無論事業(yè)如何成功都不能成為男人欣賞的對象。
女性的職業(yè)及經濟狀況
調查統(tǒng)計我國雜志中的女性職業(yè)和經濟狀況有助于我們研究女性在社會分工中職位的特點、女性對男性在經濟上的依賴程度和時尚男刊是否存在男權意識等問題。為了詳盡地了解我國時尚男刊中的女性職業(yè)和經濟狀況,這里選取了《名牌》、《時尚先生》、《名仕》各24本雜志做樣本,將《名牌》、《時尚先生》、《名仕》三分雜志中涉及的女性職業(yè)分為藝術家、明星、政治家、企業(yè)家、模特和其他六大類,對我國時尚男刊中的女性職業(yè)做了一個粗略的統(tǒng)計
表4.2: 三種時尚男刊中女性職業(yè)分類
由上表可以看出,活躍在《名牌》、《時尚先生》、《名仕》中的女性職業(yè)往往以明星、模特、藝術家為主,其中模特、明星又占絕大多數,傳統(tǒng)的家庭主婦角色以及“成功男人背后任勞任怨的女人”的形象很少出現在男性時尚雜志中。
這些雜志中的職業(yè)女性總是伴隨成功、美麗、性感、事業(yè)有成等字眼出現,肯定女性的成功和貢獻,將女性的活動范圍延伸到家庭生活以外的范圍,多談及女性的事業(yè),這樣的做法在一定程度上體現了男女平等的觀念,但是同時對女性的歧視也存在隱蔽性。似乎女性的成功都是依靠美麗的外貌或敢于展示裸露的身體,對于女性的智慧、學識、能力等卻少有提及。由此,就將女性利用性感和美貌來獲得成功這一現象合理化普遍化,而這與大多數女性還是通過自身的素質和努力獲得成功的社會現實不符.
女性圖片的呈現
現代媒體的傳播中,無論是電視還是雜志、網絡都存在很多女性裸露的圖片、視頻,強調女性的吸引力和性特征。時尚雜志更多的是通過相貌和性特征來界定女性,對女性外貌的強調非常突出,最流行的女性雜志往往最熱衷討論有關女性身體與相貌的話題,并不斷提供女性節(jié)食和鍛煉的信息,男性時尚雜志則通過刊登性感女性的照片并配加解說詞的方式討論相關話題。以下列表選取的是《時尚先生》、《名牌》、《名仕》24本雜志做的樣本分析。#p#分頁標題#e#
表4.3:三種時尚男刊廣告中的男女裸露圖片比例
著重描述、刻畫身體暴露的女性圖片是時尚男性雜志中的一大特點。筆者在對3種不同雜志近兩年的觀察可以看出,所有的時尚男性雜志都無法避免刊登裸露女性的圖片,裸露女性圖片比例比裸露男性圖片比例高出很多。這些裸露女性圖片中,有車模,也有明星,也有特約上鏡女性,這些女性暴露的部位往往是鏡頭的焦點所在,或是妓好的身材,或是柔嫩的肌膚,或是修長的大腿,或是圓滾滾的臀部,還有采用各種攝影表現手法來突出乳溝的,更有甚者,直接裸體上陣,這種做法,著實為時尚男性雜志贏得了不少的眼球,賺得了不少的利潤。
時尚男刊中女性形象存在的問題
5.1強調女性對男性的依附性
媒體在形成我們的性別結構和提供女性和男性像什么一一他們的人格特征、社會角色和社會價值的期待方面起著重要的作用。①男性雜志中對女性的描述則更多地傾向于與性相關聯,即使是強調女性的成功也在很大一部分內容上強調男性對女性成功的幫助,即女性是從屬于男性的,女性的成功要依靠男性的幫助。
首先,在女性與商品之間建立一種隱喻式的關系,體現女性對奢侈品的向往。《時尚先生》有一個專欄是《速度與激情》,這個專欄多是介紹跑車的性能及漂亮炫酷的外觀,在刊登跑車圖片之余,性感的模特是必不可少的,幾乎所有的模特都是三點式,穿著比基尼,甚至丁字褲,擺出各種類似性愛的姿勢,似乎跑車就是她們心愛的男人,四五個女性撫摸著跑車,為跑車加工美容,體現出女性對奢侈品的向往和喜愛。男性時尚雜志上的廣告通常有汽車、化妝品、手機、手表、磚石珠寶等奢侈品,幾乎所有的商品都無一例外地需要女性作為廣告模特來突出男性的尊貴與成功。
第二,在時尚男性雜志中,女性在兩性關系中居于從屬地位,對男性順從,從而得到男性的寵愛。縱觀所有的男性時尚雜志,凡是出現鉆石珠寶、奢華女裝等女性奢侈用品的廣告的時候,女性總是處于從屬地位而不是主導地位,廣告的畫面通常是男性為女性戴上價值連城的鉆石項鏈,男性用欣賞的目光打量穿著奢華晚禮服的女性,而項鏈、晚禮服是男人送給女人的,這里就體現了男性是主導,女性是從屬,女人依賴男人而生活,女人只有依靠男人才能過上無限奢侈的上流生活。
第三,在時尚男性雜志中,女性的生存價值只局限于容貌、年齡、身材上,女性只專注于愛情、享受和時尚的追逐,她們的主要興趣在化妝品、服裝、首飾、減肥上,對于與之無關的所謂的事業(yè)、社會現狀、歷史地理等一概不感興趣。
2.1男性的角色#p#分頁標題#e#
2.1.1成功的“商務人士”
表11、男性的年齡呈現
表中的結果顯示:時尚男性的年齡集中在18一45歲之間,占到樣本總體的95.2%。其中以26一35歲的最多,占到了樣本中將近一半的份額。在所有的樣本中,兒童出現的比例很小,只有2.606,但是,在所有的樣本中,沒有老年人的形象。可見,男性時尚雜志宣揚的是好像只有青年人和中年人才有資格時尚。從結果中我們發(fā)現,男性時尚雜志中存在著年齡的歧視現象.
從上表中的數據中,我們看到,職業(yè)男性的角色占到將近一半的比例。可見在時尚雜志中男性的角色呈現還是以傳統(tǒng)的成功的商務人士為主。娛樂休閑的角色也有39.1%的比例。從中我們可以得到這樣的信息,男性不是在職場中炫耀自己事業(yè)的成功,就是在休閑娛樂中顯示自己身份的尊貴,他們在充分地享受生活。但是在樣本中男性的家庭角色的呈現只占有7%的比例,可見男性時尚雜志有忽視和弱化男性的家庭角色的傾向。而男性的社會角色卻在不斷地重復中得到強化。
表13、男性的服飾呈現
男性不同的角色,也需要由相應的服飾來體現。從表n中我們發(fā)現,男性的角色主要是職業(yè)角色和休閑娛樂角色,所以他們服飾也體現了相同的特征。職業(yè)裝和休閑裝占到了,75.7%的高比例。運動裝多是以時尚的年輕人為主,有14.7%的比例。還有8.3%的另類裝,也是年輕人表現出的反傳統(tǒng)的穿著。通過服飾的呈現,已經突破了男性形象的模式化,而時尚健康,注重自我意識表達,我們發(fā)現男性的角色和反叛不羈的角色在廣告樣本中已經有了展示和發(fā)展的空間。而家居裝只有1.3%的比例,和弱化男性的家庭形象相對應。
從表14中,男性形象出現的場合以娛樂休閑場合和職業(yè)場所居多,分別有26.6%和14.7%的比例,出現在家庭場合僅占到2.1%,而無地點背景最多,有44.1%之多。樣本總體中角色定位依然是男性的職場表現。男性在公共領域的角色得到強化。廣告中所展現的男性形象,大多從事著有領導力和競爭力的工作,展現出他們在商海奮戰(zhàn)中沉著、冷靜、充滿智慧、知性淡定的一面。可見事業(yè)有成的商務男士是廣告中男性形象的首選。
2.2.1.1陽剛之美
廣告使用男性形象來推銷商品,而男性性感的身體是其中最大的賣點。與展示女性身體的陰柔之美不同的是,男性以體魄強健的陽剛之美取勝,在樣本中年輕的男性比較張揚,他們毫不掩飾地展示頭部、頸部與身體其他部位的和諧,隱含著男性特有的自豪感與夸耀感。他們炫耀著男性力度的同時,也彰顯著男性的性感美、肉體美。這類廣告大多無背景,用高超的攝影技術突出了人體的肌肉輪廓。模特寬闊的肩膀有著強大的支撐力,發(fā)達的肌肉蘊藏著無#p#分頁標題#e#
窮的力量.
第三章男性形象的成因分析
時尚類雜志廣告中男性廣告形象,和當代的整個社會經濟形態(tài),消費觀念以及各種
思潮運動有著密不可分的聯系,潛在的影響著廣告中的男性形象的再現,也使男性形象
有更為鮮明的外在形式、性格特征和男性氣質的呈現.
3.3商業(yè)因素
社會的不斷進步和轉型,消費主義的入侵,大眾傳統(tǒng)的心理期待和認同,男性主義和女性主義運動的不斷推進,作為傳播媒介本身發(fā)生了變革,同時對媒介廣告中的男性和女性形象的多元化產生了一定的影響,但是還有一個重要因素我們不能忽視,即商業(yè)化的誘導,它是最根本的原因。主流媒介是廣告商所控制的,為利益所驅動的。無論是什么媒介,離開廣告客戶的廣告費用,媒介都是無法生存的.
雜志社很清楚,他們對廣告主的吸引力就在于它的目標受眾定位精確,有穩(wěn)定的受
眾群,高端的品牌形象,為了獲得各方面的支持。在設計雜志欄目時,都選擇男性感興
趣的話題,設計時尚男性的生活方式和外貌,對廣告商的選擇,也是和自身雜志的定位
相匹配,大多也都是一些國際上時尚界的寵兒。同時他們也利用女權主義,設計一些節(jié)
目、相關的社會活動,其主題和內容都是帶有一些女性主義的傾向,有的甚至于女性主
義的觀點不謀而合。
3.4 社會因素
“女性主義者經常將將廣告看作是壓迫的焦點,認為廣告?zhèn)鬟f的形象通過將女性表現為被男性‘凝視’的被動客體而加以貶低(Stern,1993)。在這里,女性被展現為被動的欲望客體,處于男性的注視之下,男性則積極地參與對所看到的一切盡心評價和操縱。然而,最近,‘女性凝視’(Schroeder&ZwiCk,1999)的概念被引入到廣告作品之中,而女性主義者的角色反轉技術(Fetterley,1997;Stern,1993)則被用來支持男性被過度渲染成色情的、偶像化的以及脆弱的欲望客體的主張。”
隨著社會的進步與變革,社會性別理論的研究呈漸進和多元發(fā)展。聲勢浩蕩的女性主義促進了社會對女性身份、地位的認可,同時也影響到男女雙方對兩性逐漸趨同的社會角色的認識。這些社會文化意識形態(tài)等方面的變化影響著廣告的表現,時尚類雜志廣告中傳統(tǒng)的男性形象逐漸被消解,產生了許多女性眼里最想接近的新男性形象。新男性形象的出現是女性社會經濟地位的提高和整個社會思想意識的進步的結果。
文化的因素對男性形象的影響很復雜,她使得我們對男性理想形象的內涵不斷豐富。其實,男性和女性都將繼續(xù)同時作為凝視的主體和客體而存在,因為男性和女性一樣,即受到了女性主義的影響,也受到了男性主義的影響#p#分頁標題#e#
4.4.1 the woman's age
In order to intuitively understand China's fashion of women in the publication of the male age, here the famous brand ", select the fashion sir ", "famous" as research samples, are working on this three magazine as the samples because they are men in China fashion magazine more in the representative, can become the focus of research. The following are the three men from 24 publication of the fashion magazine of women in the age layered, because some of the women's age the author can't know that, so the following data statistics relatively coarse. Under "other" table column includes the author not know women age and over 45 years of age women.
From the table 4.1 observed that the famous brand ", "fashion sir", "famous" of the women involved in almost all is young women, ages 18 a 45 years in between, including 18 a 35 of women and in a majority, more than 35 years old of very few women, show that the publication of the women of fashion male with young women to give priority to, do not contain the older group of women. Fashion publication of highly praise in male and the beautiful young women, from another level, the commercialization of the results, it with the female beauty measure women, suggests that the beautiful young women more attractive and more appreciation value, aged color declines of women no matter how career success would be men enjoy objects.
4.1.2 female occupation and economic conditions
Investigation and statistics from the journal in China female career and economic conditions will help us women in social division of labor in the study of the characteristics of women, position of men in economic dependence and fashion male issue whether there are male consciousness, etc. In order to understand the details of the publication of the women fashion male professional and economic conditions, select the "famous brand" here, "Mr. Fashion", "famous" every 24 magazine do sample, will the famous brand ", "fashion sir", "famous" three points involved in the magazine female career into artists, stars, politicians, entrepreneurs, models and six other big kinds of our country, the publication of the women fashion male professional done a rough statistics
Table 4.2: three women in the publication of the fashion male classifications
From the above can see, active in the famous brand ", "fashion sir", "famous" in the female profession often by star, models, artists give priority to, including models, and the majority of stars, the traditional housewives role and "successful man of the burden of hard work behind the woman" image rarely occur in men in the fashion magazine.
These magazines of professional women always go with success, beautiful, sexy, a successful career words appear, sure women success and contribution, the female's scope extended to family life outside of the range, and more about women's career, so the approach to a certain extent reflects the concept of equality between men and women, but also to the female's discrimination are also concealment. The success of the women seem to depend on the beautiful appearance or dare to show naked body, for women's wisdom, knowledge and ability is seldom mentioned. Thus, will use sexy and beautiful women to succeed this phenomenon, a generalized rationalization, and this and most women or through their own quality and to succeed social facts. #p#分頁標題#e#
4.2 women pictures appear
The spread of modern media, whether it is television or magazines, network has many women naked pictures, video, emphasize the female's appeal and sexual characteristics. Fashion magazines more is through the appearance and features to define women, to women that appearance is very outstanding, the most popular women's magazines are often the most keen to discuss the female body and appearance of the topic, and continuously provide women diet and exercise information, fashion magazine published by men are sexy pictures of women with addition of commentary and discuss topics related to the way. The following list of selection is the fashion sir ", "famous brand", "famous" 24 magazine do sample analysis.
Table 4.3: three fashion male issue advertising of men and women and exposed picture proportions
Focusing on the body is exposed and depicting female images in the men's magazine fashion is a great characteristic. The author is in three different magazines for nearly two years of observation can see, all the fashion magazines can't avoid men published pictures of naked women, bare naked men than women pictures proportion picture a much higher proportion. These pictures of naked women, models, also have a star, also have special mirror on women, these women exposed areas often is the focal place of the lens, or prostitution better figure, or tender skin, or long legs, or round hips, and used various photography expression to highlight the cleavage, what is more, direct naked to battle, this kind of practice, really for fashionable men's magazine won many eye, and earned a lot of profit.
5 fashion publication of the female image in male existing problems
5.1 women to emphasize the dependent men
The media in the formation of gender structure and provide our men and women like what they personality, one social role and social value of the expectation of play an important role. (1) in the men's magazine on the description of the women are more tend to be associated with sex, even if is to emphasize that the success of the women and in a part of content that the success of men women help, namely the men from belongs to women, women's success will depend on men for help.
First of all, in women and between commodity set up a kind of metaphor relationship, reflect the luxury of women yearn for. "Mr. Fashion" have a column is the speed and passion ", this column is introduced the performance of the sports car and beautiful appearance of dazzle cruel, published more than the pictures in sports car, sexy model is indispensable, almost all of the models are SanDianShi, dressed in a bikini, even t-shaped pants, put out all sorts of similar sex posture, it seems the man is that they love sports car, four or five women stroked the sports car, for sports car processing beauty, manifests the women to luxury yearning and loved. Men in fashion magazines are automobiles, advertising is often cosmetics, mobile phones, watches, jewelry and so on brick of luxury, almost all the commodities without exception, need to women as advertising model to highlight the honour of men with success. #p#分頁標題#e#
Second, in the fashion of the men's magazine, women in relationships in subordinate position, to the male obedient, and thus get men's favor. Throughout all of the men fashion magazines, always appear a diamond jewelry, costly eu women luxuries advertising, women have always been subordinate status and not the leading position, and advertising picture usually male for women wear the priceless diamond necklace, men with appreciation in the eyes of the women looked costly evening dress, and necklace, evening dress is a man can give to a woman, reflected here is the leading men and women are affiliate, women rely on men and life, a woman can only rely on men will have a infinite upper-class life of luxury.
Third, in the fashion of the men's magazine, women's survival value limited for looks, age, height, women focus on love, enjoy, and of fashion, their main interest in cosmetics, clothing, jewelry, reduce weight, and not for the so-called business, social status, historical geography are not interested.
2.1 the role of males
2.1.1 successful "business people"
Table 11, the age of the men present
The table of results show that: the age of the stylish men focused on 18 a 45 years old between, account for 95.2% of the total sample. Among them with 26 a 35 year old most, accounted for nearly half of all share in the sample. Of all the samples, the proportion of children appear small, only 2.606, but, of all the samples, not the old people's image. Visible, male fashion magazines for young and middle-aged people like only qualified fashion. From the results we found that men are in the fashion magazine of age discrimination.
The data in the above table, we see, the role of the career men accounted for nearly half of the scale. Visible at the fashion magazine the role of males in the success of the traditional or in the present business people who give priority to. The role of leisure, entertainment and a 39.1% proportion. From it we can get access to this information, the male is not found in the workplace to show off their business success, is in the entertainment show in the honour of my identity, they in fully enjoy life. But in the sample of the male in the present family role a mere 7% of the proportion, visible male fashion magazines have ignored and weakening of the role of the family men tendency. And the men of the social role is repeated in the strengthened.
Watch the male's dress 13, present
Male different roles, also need of the corresponding costumes to reflect. From table n we found that men's role as professional roles and leisure entertainment role, so they dress the same also shows the characteristics. Work and recreational outfit is occupied, 75.7% of the high proportion. The young man on the flight fashion is given priority to, the proportion of 14.7%. And 8.3% of the alternative outfit, also show the young people against the traditional dress. Through the dress of the present, has exceeded male figures modeled, and fashionable health, pay attention to self consciousness expression, we found that men's roles and rebel unruly role in advertising samples have display and development space. And with only 1.3% of the proportion of the household, and weakening of the male family image corresponds. #p#分頁標題#e#
From a table in the 14 men appear to the occasion image entertainment and leisure places and professional place is in the majority, with 26.6% and 14.7% proportion, appeared in the family occasions only account for 2.1%, and no place most background, with 44.1%. Sample in overall role positioning is still the male workplace performance. Men in the public domain role strengthened. AD shows male figures, mostly engaged in leadership and competitive work, show they fight in the business of cool, calm and full of wisdom, intellectual calm side. Visible, a successful career in advertising business man is the first choice of male image.
2.2.1.1 muscular beauty
Advertising use the male image to sell the goods, while men sexy body is one of the biggest selling point. And display of the female body beauty of femininity different is, men with strong muscular beauty, to win in the samples of the young men more make public, they conceal the display of the head, neck and other parts of the body, the harmony between male special implicit sense of pride and boast. They show off with the strength of the men at the same time, also reveal the male sexy beauty, physical beauty. These kinds of advertisements are no background, with excellent photography technology highlighted the muscles of the human body outline. Model broad shoulders with strong support, developed muscles contain no
The power of the poor.
In the third chapter male figures the cause analysis
Fashion magazines in advertising men advertising image, and contemporary the whole society economic form, consumption idea and various
Trend closely related to the development of sports contact, the potential impact of advertising men representation of the image, also make the male image
A more distinct external form, character and male temperament appear.
3.3 commercial factors
The development of society and economy, consumerism invasion, the mass of the traditional psychological expect and identity, sexism and the development of the feminist movement, as the media itself happened to change, and to the media advertisement the male and female image of the diversified has certain influence, but still has an important factors we can't ignore, namely the commercialization of the induction, it is the fundamental reason why. The mainstream media is controlled by advertisers, driven by the interests. No matter what the media, leave the advertiser's advertising costs, the media are to survive.
Magazine very clear, they appeal to advertisers lies in its target audience accurate location, has the stable from you
The group, high-end brand image, in order to obtain the support. In the design magazine columns, choose the men are to be popular
Interesting topic, fashionable in design male way of life and appearance, to advertisers choice, is also the positioning and their own magazines
Match, most are also some international fashion's pet. At the same time they also use of feminism, design some day #p#分頁標題#e#
Mesh, relevant social activities, its theme and with some of the content is the tendency of feminism, some even women the Lord
Righteous view completely.
3.4 social factors
"Women activists often will advertising as is the focus of oppression, think advertisements transmission through performance for image will be women, by men '" passive at an object to belittle (Stern, 1993). Here, women to be shown for passive desire, the man in the gaze of the object under, men are actively participate in the see of everything evaluation and manipulate with. Recently, however,' female gaze '(Schroeder&ZwiCk, 1999) concept is introduced to the advertising works in, and the role of feminists inversion technology (Fetterley, 1997; Stern, 1993) is used to support the male is too ingrained as pornographic, idolizing and fragile object of desire of the claim."
Along with the progress of the society and the change, the research of the theory of social gender is gradually and diversified development. Momentum of feminism dances promote the social status of women identity, recognition, but also affect men and women both parties in both the social role of converging understanding. These social cultural ideology, and other aspects of the changes affect the performance of the advertising, fashion magazines in advertising traditional male image was gradually eliminate, produced many women's eyes want to close new male image. New male image is the emergence of the social economic status of women and improve the whole society thought consciousness of the result of progress.
Cultural factors to the influence of male image is very complicated, she makes us to the image of the ideal male is unceasingly rich connotation. In fact, both men and women will continue to gaze at the same time as the main body and object exists, because men and women, which was the influence of feminism, was also the influence of sexism
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